Trying my hand at screen printing, collaborating, and working with print design for the very first time

When I was in undergrad at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, I was a transfer student. More specifically, I was a transfer into the BFAW program which meant that I was a writer, focusing on short fiction. Although my course of study quickly shifted and I joined the fashion department, I was always textile focused; Interested in creating my own fabrics, engaging in multi-step processes, breaking down materials in order to rebuild them into new fibers that were genuinely my own.

Much of this blog has been fur focused and is showcasing both my passion for the material as well as my use and exploration of it as an artist and designer. At the same time however I have been developing a new conceptual womenswear collection, and much of my time has been devoted to the research and collaborative processes it will take to produce. Focusing on family history, consumerism, gender roles and American aesthetics, it was really important to me to develop my own fabrics, especially prints that could illustrate my concepts and perspective. A large component of my research has also been on textile and print design, especially looking at Horrockses textile company and prints used on flour sacks throughout the Great Depression. Full disclosure: I know nothing about printmaking, but I do know how to collaborate. Therefore it was important for me to reach out to designers who could visually translate the abstract concepts I want to communicate to my wearers and admirers.

Shirley Ellis was the first printmaker to view my sketchbook full of research, ideas, photographs and journaling and actually digest it into a series of prints designed especially for this new collection. The development has been an ongoing conversation of push and pull, feedback, criticism, evaluation, progression, finalization. But the result is here: a simple graphic that will ultimately be toyed with just a bit more before becoming part of the branding of my newly relaunched label.

Daisy Palma is textile artist, specializing in screen printing. In a similar function, Daisy also viewed my sketchbook and ingested the research before beginning drawings that will eventually creep onto garments. Most generously, Daisy invited me to the SAIC Fiber’s studio to introduce me to screen printing. I’m incredibly grateful for this opportunity because allowing me to partake in the process and learn the fundamentals will actually enable me to understand and explore the boundaries of what is possible, and what we can all achieve together.

My first reaction to screen printing is that it’s a messy job - much like the process of dying fabrics. Scoops, emulsion, pressure washer, squeegee and spatula are all new terms to me, but understanding the process of first erasing a screen, and then using emulsion and a light table to burn a new screen actually unfolded in front of me like magic. My secondary reaction to the process was that it was, indeed, a process. Daisy had considerately lined up prepped materials, much like a segmented cooking show which sped up our process. We planned to spend the evening in the fiber studio while I learned to print, but in reality it would have taken much longer into the night without prepared supplies. That being said, we were able to easily transition from cleaning a screen to to creating our own, and then to begin engaging in the process of printing.

Screen printing instantly appealed to me. I believe its the physicality of the process required to print (I need to start lifting because dragging the squeegee and applying pressure is no joke), the mess making, and the limitations of knowing exactly how each print will turn out are all processes that I enjoy as an artist, which is how I entered designing clothing. The prints that we sampled are definitely works in progress, but they are a start, and are a true visual representation of the direction I am steering my branding toward, and ultimately the relaunch of my label. I’m beyond ecstatic to try another new process. Last week creating custom footwear was my reintroduction to becoming a student, and this week really reinforced my desire to become a student again. I’m so excited to be learning and trying new things, and I hope that some of the video and process works can inspire someone else to try something new, overdue, or unexpected.